Chances are that if you’ve come across a wine from Washington State it was one that was owned by the Altria Group. Their wine holdings include Chateau Ste Michelle, Snoqualmie, Erath, Hawk Crest, Fourteen Hands, Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, Villa Maria, Esk Valley, Seven Falls, O Wines, and Domaine Ste Michelle. I say it’s statistically probable because they account for something like 80% of all wine exports out of Washington and that’s really a shame. No, it’s not a shame because they produce poor quality wine. In fact, they’re producing pretty good wines for each of their respective price points. Even the fact that the Altria Group changed their name a few years ago from Phillip Morris Companies which leaves many that know that in a moral dilemma anytime they consider buying one of the wines isn’t the entire reason. It’s a shame that the Washington wine you’ve probably had comes from the Altria group because there are so many other talented people growing grapes and making wine in that state that you really need to start drinking their stuff.
I’ve been going to a Washinton State trade and media tasting in Minneapolis off and on every March for the past 5 or so years and I think what is most remarkable about the event is that the wineries that show up are still wanting to prove that their wine is just as good as California or even Oregon which is now just starting to fade out of their brief shine in the international spotlight. It’s a combination of optimistic enthusiasm and a serious chip on the shoulder; the plucky boxer that is hell bent on reaching the top and won’t stop to even acknowledge what they’ve accomplished so far. Ironically, in my work with the Minnesota wine, I look to Washington to learn lessons about how to market and grow the industry. To me, they’ve been nothing but a success story and are still climbing.
Sometimes it’s ok to pick a wine based on its label. Gorgeous labels. Tasty wine.
The winemaking culture in Washington borrows heavily from France; Bordeaux and Rhone in particular. While you certainly see a number of single varietals, it seems everyone has a flagship blend of either the Merlot/Cabernet Sauvingon/Cabernet Franc or Grenache/Syrah/Mouvedre variety. Reds are certainly heavily favored, but their Chardonnays and Rieslings are certainly attractive options. What is nice is that most of the wineries tend to shy away from the “Fruit Bomb” style that’s so popular with Robert Parker and California wines and instead opt for a touch of grace. I believe we call that restraint.
Next time you’re out at the wine shop or a restaurant, do yourself a favor and search out a Washington wine and give it a try if you’re unfamiliar. Walla Wall and Columbia Vallery are perhaps the two most established wine regions, but new ones are popping up regularly now. However, it’s always difficult to find wine from these newer regions unless you drive the 4 hours + from Seattle to get to the regions themselves. If you can manage it, try to avoid the Altria Group wines as well. Again, not because they’re making bad wine, but to give the other winemakers a chance. I’d say in most cases you’re not going to be disappointed and everyone wins if they start shipping more wine out of Washington.
More maps and winery listings can be found here.
Aaron Berdofe's Wine and Food Experience 